Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Turku, Finland

I boarded the ferry and headed to my room. I double-checked my ticket as I was about to open my door because my door was on the window side of the ship. "This can't be," I thought, "Outside cabins are never the cheapest option." I opened the door, and light shone down from the heavens. One bed (and a convertible couch). Window. (Small) Flat screen TV. Everything was shiny, and new and beautiful, and there was no one else in sight. I really couldn't believe it, I had to keep checking my ticket, and the receipt from m reservation fee. I was incredulous that I could have gotten that for a measly 90 SEK (about $13.75 CAD).

My room!!


I hung around the room for a while, waiting to see if anyone else would show up, but when no one did, I decided to go explore the ship. It was swanky and really beautiful. I would have loved to be on it for longer (especially with that wonderful private room), but I was only going to be on it overnight. I didn't take many photos because it was pretty much completely dark by the time I got on board, so I just explored the ship, and then set up with my laptop in the piano lounge. I could only get free Internet access in public areas, but it worked out well because I got to hear some nice piano music while I was surfing the web.

I went to bed early because I knew we were getting into Turku at 7 am local time (6 am Sweden time), and the wake-up call was going to be at 6. I had a pretty good sleep, except it was a bit hard to get to sleep because there were some people partying a little in my hallway, and at one point, 2 people started having a big fight in a language I didn't know pretty close to my door.

I was hoping I could get some decent sunrise shots, but the sun didn't rise quickly enough to be very interesting, so I just grabbed a bit of breakfast and got ready to get off the ship.

Turku through my window at sunrise.


Since it was only 7 am, I decided I would walk into town. It took a good 40 minutes for me to get to downtown, but I was able to find a coffee shop that was open, so I grabbed a second breakfast (they were both small), and sat in the coffee shop to stay warm and look through my Turku guide to figure out what I wanted to do for the day.

There were lots of things in the book, so I made a list (keeping in mind when everything opened), and then set out at about 9.

First, I went to the cathedral. I loved it! It was incredibly beautiful, but much less decorated than a lot of the old cathedrals I've seen, which I actually really liked. It made me think of the Hunchback of Notre Dame (Disney-style), even though it didn't really look like that (I still got "God Help the Outcasts" stuck in my head). I wanted to visit their little museum, but I figured I should get some euros first, so I headed off to do that, and ended up shopping a little as well. I found this huge store that was kind of like a fancy Zellers (think the Bay with a more diverse product line).

Cathedral from the outside.

Inside the cathedral.


I also stopped by the local library. It had some really neat architecture. Half the building was really new, and the other half was the old library, which was all really cool (plus they had comfy chairs!).

The new part of the library.

The old half of the library.

Inside the library.


I went back to the cathedral, and looked through their museum (which was in a hall that looked over the congregation area). They had lots of old things up there that were pretty neat to see. Plus, there were a couple women in the church itself singing hymns that really added to the atmosphere. It sounded so eerie and beautiful! The acoustics of the building made it sound like there were a whole bunch of people singing.

One of the things on display in the cathedral.


Next I went to the Sibelius museum. Although it did have a nice, big exhibit about the composer Jean Sibelius, the majority of the museum consisted of a massive collection of musical instruments from around the world, and there were some really cool ones, plus it explained really well how the different instrument worked. They also had a huge hall in the basement called the "Organ Hall" that was filled with pianos and organs of all kinds. (I wasn't supposed to take photos in there, but I snuck a couple.)

I don't remember what this is called!! But it's very rare, and very pretty!

In the Organ Hall.


Next I went straight across the street to the "Ett Hem" museum which was a house that was filled with belongings that a wealthy couple had willed to the university upon their deaths. The original house had been much bigger, so things were pretty jam-packed into the building, but everything was recreated very beautifully, and all the furniture was really neat to look at! The original house had to be torn down because it was sitting on swampland or something, so it was no longer safe to keep it standing. I went through all the rooms about 3 times because I enjoyed it so much. (I couldn't take any photos there, and there aren't really any photos on the Internet.)

From one of the rooms.


Next I decided to go to the Art Gallery. I stopped to get a grab bag of candy before I got there (Finland has good candy stores too). Unfortunately, there wasn't much to see at the Art Gallery at all. They were just in the process of putting up 2 new exhibits (one of which was opening only 2 days after I was there!), and the rest of their collection was pretty small (although it was pretty good). Passable, but considering it cost me 4 whole euros (each of the other 3 museums had only cost 1 euro), I didn't feel like it was really worth all that.

After the art, I went to a fancy restaurant that was right beside the art gallery for a late lunch/early dinner. Apparently no one goes to restaurants at 3 in the afternoon, so the whole place was dead empty. I decided to order a reindeer fillet with vegetables in a lingon berry sauce. It was all delicious except the potatoes with cheese on them were slightly undercooked. I was hoping that I would be able to have reindeer at some point on this trip, so I was pretty glad I got the chance to try it!

Yummy!!! (Sorry Rudolph!)


Next, I went to buy what could be the world's most awesome chocolate bar. It was mint chocolate (one of my favourites along with plain chocolate or chocolate and peanut butter), and it was made by the panda company, so it had a panda logo on it! AWESOME! But I stuck it in my bag to save for later. It was a Finnish company, so I'm not sure if I'll ever find those bars outside of Finland.



I started heading back towards the ferry so that I could go visit the castle. The castle was the most expensive thing I did that day (other than eating Rudolph), but it was only 7 euros, so it wasn't too bad. I was hoping to get a student discount, but I couldn't find my card, and she wouldn't acccept it without an ID card.

The castle was really cool. There as tons to see and do there. You got to wander around and explore the castle, and it displayed things from the medieval times all the way up until the mid 20th century. The exhibits went on and on and on. I couldn't believe that they kept going as long as they did. It was really good though, I'm glad went there.

The outside of the castle.



Dungeon!

One of the displays.


I went back to the ferry terminal to buy my ticket and wait. While I was waiting, I was thirsty, so I decided to buy myself a drink. When I saw the Smurf drink, I had to buy it even though I didn't really know what it was. It was green apple flavoured pop and although it could have been stronger, it was pretty decent.

We finally boarded the ferry, and I found my room, but I couldn't get the door unlocked, so I had to go get a plastic key from the information desk. I had a shared cabin with 4 bunks. There were 2 Russian women who didn't speak English (I believe they were mother and daughter), and a Swiss girl named Julia who was studying in Sweden.

I chatted with her (she said she was relieved that I showed up because she doesn't speak Russian), and we explored the ship together before going back to the cabin.We talked for a while and then I went to get some food. I told her some stories from my travels, and then we both went to bed because we were pretty tired, and the ship was supposed to get in at 6 am.

Next - last day in Stockholm.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Stockholm Part 1

It was 6 in the morning, and I decided to go find my hostel. It was about a 10 minute walk from the train station, and really easy to find. Unfortunately, it didn't open until 8 am, so I sat down on a park bench nearby for a while until I decided it would be better to stay at the train station where it was actually warm.

I sat down on a bench at the train station, and faded in and out of consciousness until shortly before 8 when I decided I would head back to the hostel. As I was leaving the building, I passed by one of the convenience stores and decided that some food would be good. I went in and saw the rows of candy, and remembering Kaycie's candy and grossly lacking impulse control while that sleep deprived, I grabbed a bag and started shovelling all kinds of different candies into it. Then I got a Coke and a chocolate bar. That was my breakfast.

I got to the hostel, and checked in, but I couldn't get into my room until 2 pm, so I put my backpack into the luggage storage, and then hung around the hostel for a while and went on the Internet and tried to figure out what I wanted to do for the day.

I eventually decided that I would head to the dance museum that I had found a pamphlet for. It didn't open until 11 though, so I still had some time to kill. I started walking anyway though, and found the tourist information office to grab a city guide.

I ended up finding the main shopping street, and going around there for a while. There was one intersection that I found that had an H&M on 3/4 of the corners. And I found some good candy shops.

It may be a little hard to see, but there are actually 3 H&M's in this photo!


I headed to the dance museum, and I enjoyed it, but most of it was not quite what I was expecting. I was hoping there would be more of the collection dedicated to modern dance styles, but a lot of it was about traditional dances from around the world. That was interesting, but a lot of the styles didn't have (good) videos, so it was mostly just costumes to look at. Then I found that they had a decent loop of videos playing in their modern dance section, so I watched clips of everything from ballet to Broadway, from the early 1900's, to clips from just a few years ago.


Antique dance shoes.

Pretty costumes!

They had a lot of displays like this and although I found them interesting, I preferred the ballet stuff.


Then I also realized that they were showing a film about a competition at the Bolshoi Ballet in the 1960's (I think) which seemed pretty interesting, so I watched that. There were some really neat clips of Mikhail Baryshnikov in it, and just a lot of good dancing.

After the museum, I made my way back to the hostel to check in, shopping a little along the way. I put my stuff into my room and then decided to try out the little café that was in the reception area of my hostel. I tried to pay with a credit card, but for some reason the machine wasn't working. I grabbed a bill out of my wallet, but it was an old issue from a trip my grandma went on about 10 years ago, so it's no longer valid. Which meant I actually had a lot less money than I thought I did. However, it also meant I got a discount on my food because the woman working was feeling bad that it was their fault I couldn't pay with a credit card, so I just gave her all the money I had.

The food was good, but I went out right afterwards to get more money because I didn't have any. Then I walked around a little, and shopped a bit in the old town before I came back to my room and crashed for a nap.

I had a late supper (at Max again) after I woke up from my nap, and then went back to my hostel. I didn't feel like trying to meet random people in the common area, so I just went to my room, and ended up going to sleep pretty early. My room had 12 beds, but I quite liked it, although I think I shared the room with 8 guys that night.

View from my bunk - nice room.


I got up early and had to get myself checked out of my hostel by 10. At 10, I went on a bike tour that I had signed up for given by one of the women who works at the hostel.

It was pretty good, although I'm really in no shape to ride a bike, and I couldn't find my camera in my bag, so I didn't take any photos (maybe just as well to focus on my biking). We saw a bust of Astrid Lindgren in a park nearby our hostel (she used to live in the neighbourhood, so a lot of her stories take place there). We saw a plaque where the Swedish Prime Minister was assassinated in 1986, and a monument to a war hero that died after being taken prisoner in Russia. We got to hear a bit of the story of the Vasa, and then we had a little picnic on a dock. They had said in the description that it would be coffee and traditional Swedish cinnamon buns, but the buns were actually cardamom buns, which just aren't as good as cinnamon ones.

After we came back from the picnic, I tried to get my things ready to head to Finland. I did some laundry and went on the Internet and ate at the hostel café for lunch while I was waiting. Then I went on a bit of a shopping walkabout before I came back to get all my things packed up and head off to the ferry.

I got to the terminal by taking the metro, and went to buy a ticket. I asked for the cheapest one they had, and the woman told me that would be a shared cabin, so I said "Okay," and paid the 90 SEK reservation fee (the rest was discounted by my Eurail pass). I got a drinkable yoghurt and tiny chocolate bar as I waited to get on the ferry.

While waiting to board the ferry.


Next up - the ferry to Finland.

Farewell Denmark, Hello Sweden!

I managed to wake myself up at about 6:30 am Sunday, and got myself up by about 6:50. I checked out, and was hoping to take the bus to the train station rather than make the 30 minute walk with my big bag, but it turned out I had just missed the 7:30 bus, so it would be at least as fast if I just walked.

I hopped on the train that was headed to Malmo, and I got there at about 9. I headed out almost straight away to find the Turning Torso (Scandinavia's tallest building). I walked and walked, and I could see the building in the distance, but it felt like a mirage that was never getting any closer! Finally I turned a corner, and I could see the whole thing, and I eventually made it all the way there. It was a really cool building. After that, I headed back to the train station to grab some food and reserve a ticket for the night train to Stockholm.

Turning Torso.




I explored the area around the train station a little, and then I called Kaycie to warn her that I was going to be on a train heading to Ystad very shortly. Kaycie is 4 years younger than me, but I know her from high school, and she's on an exchange in a little town called Ystad, so I decided it would be neat to go visit her and see the town! Before I left Malmo, I bought myself a sandwich that I'm pretty sure was made with the liver spread stuff that's popular in this part of the world.



I got to Ystad and had a lovely little visit with Kaycie as she gave me a tour around the town. It was nice to have a tour guide, and the town was adorable! She's a lucky girl to get to be there! We saw the old churches, the theatre, the park, the harbour, the school, and lots of adorable little houses. She introduced me to Swedish candy (there were a couple stores there with a FANTASTIC selection of candy), and we had fika (a fika? Kaycie says it best translates to coffee date, but can have a wide variety of meanings) at a little coffee shop.

Inside one of the churches.

Kaycie's school.

Train and bus station.

View from the dock.



When she had to go home for dinner, I explored a little more and grabbed a Peanut Butter Cookie Dough ice cream bar as I was waiting for the train. We had been talking about peanut butter and ice cream, so it sounded especially good right about then. I was really glad I stopped for that little visit! Ystad was such a cute little town, and I would never have seen it if I didn't know someone who was there!

In Ystad.

Random, cute house.



I headed back to Malmo, and started looking for a restaurant. Kaycie had said that Max had good food (especially fries), so when I saw one, I decided to go in. I got a falafel burger with fries and it was delicious! Then I found out that they have free wireless internet here, so I stuck around to take advantage of it. All of this so far has been written at the Max.

After I left the Max, I just went to the train station and got my backpack out of a locker then hung around until my train was ready to leave.

I was in a sleeper cabin because that's apparently all that the train had. It was a 6 bed room with a bunch of strangers, but I slept better than I would have in a chair. We got into Stockholm at 6 am, and I'll continue the story next post.

Google Translate says that this sign says that you ARE allowed to flush the toilet while the train is standing in the station. But it still makes me think of that song.